Alfama
The oldest quarter, a Moorish maze of lanes below the castle, fado houses, and laundry strung between terraces. Atmospheric and steep, with the city's soul. Romantic, if your legs are willing.
Lisbon is built on seven hills above the Tagus, and the climbs are the city. The reward for the steep cobbled lanes is the miradouro at the top, a viewpoint, a glass of wine, and the river spread out below. The best stays put you within walking distance of a few of these and let the trams handle the rest.
Each neighbourhood here has its own character and its own gradient. The Alfama is the old Moorish maze and the home of fado, the Baixa is the flat, grand downtown, Chiado and the Bairro Alto are shopping by day and bars by night. Choose by the slope you are willing to walk.
The oldest quarter, a Moorish maze of lanes below the castle, fado houses, and laundry strung between terraces. Atmospheric and steep, with the city's soul. Romantic, if your legs are willing.
The elegant shopping district and the nightlife quarter stacked together, bookshops and cafes by day, bars until late. Central and lively. The social choice.
The flat, grand downtown and the leafy, boutique-filled hill above it. Walkable, central, and full of good restaurants. The comfortable base.
By the river to the west, the monastery, the tower, and the original pasteis de nata. Grand and green, removed from the centre but linked by tram. Worth a day, and a calm place to sleep.
March to June and September to October bring warm days, clear light, and the city on either side of the summer crowds. July and August are hot, busy, and priciest. Winter, November to February, is mild and bright by European standards, with the cheapest rates and quiet miradouros. The sweet spot is May or late September, when the weather holds and prices ease.